Most of the people we met on the Caledonian Sleeper that were getting off in Inverness were heading to the Isle of Sky or elsewhere further up into the highlands, it is after all the Gateway to the Scottish Highlands. Our plan was to sightsee around Inverness. I do have a confession to make… we didn’t actually spend much time in Inverness itself because our hotel was outside of town and none of the sights we were visiting were in Inverness proper. We had planned to go into town for dinners but always ended up being so tired we ate at our hotel. So here is a two day itinerary of Inverness environs. It seems like a cool city so I definitely suggest spending some time in the actual city too.
Cawdor Castle
After picking up the rental car we headed for Cawdor Castle. I love a good castle and since we were seeing Macbeth the following week we needed to check out the home of the Thane of Cawdor. Although the time period of Shakespeare’s Macbeth predates this castle by a couple hundred years.
It is a one way path through the castle and an audio guide is included with admission. It is an occupied castle so there are family photographs, tapestries and furnishing that gives it a nice lived in feel instead of just completely staged. There are some interesting stories along the way, too. You exit through the gift shop and can head into the garden and grounds so we had a lovely walk around, saw our first bagpiper in Scotland and were a little disappointed the hedge maze was closed for maintenance.
One final note on getting to Cawdor Castle, Google Maps will send you to the wrong place if you just type in Cawdor Castle. It gets you close but sends you to a small building that is obviously not the castle. Luckily we ran into someone who was able to direct us to the correct place and there are signs, if you are paying attention (I was not because I trust Google Maps a little too much).
Culloden Moor
Next stop Culloden Moor, the site of the Battle of Culloden. I had read a bit about the history (and watched Outlander) but the visitors center does a great job explaining the events leading up to the battle. It breaks it up into two different sides and explains the events from each point of view. There is an immersive theater experience that gives you the feeling of being in the battle. Then you head out onto the battlefield. Flags mark significant points. It is eerie walking here, where hundreds died and the outcome of the battle decided the fate of the Highlanders. Nothing was the same after this battle. Kilts, tartan and bagpipes were banned to suppress Highland culture and prevent future uprisings.
Clava Cairns
Nearby are Clava Cairns, a burial site that was first used 4000 years ago. There are three surviving cairns from that time, which were then used again around 1000 BC and three more smaller cairns were added. There are also some standing stones. It was the inspiration for Craigh Na Dun in the Outlander series. I am not going to lie, we took some Outlander inspired stone touching pictures. This is a sacred place, basically an ancient cemetery, so we wanted to be respectful and didn’t get too goofy. Also it was a little spooky. We were the only ones there. There had been tons of people at Culloden but we were all alone here, which made it more atmospheric and it was nice to have peace to take in our surroundings but also a little strange.
Loch Ness
After all of these heavy feelings it was time for some lighthearted fun- searching for Nessie on Loch Ness. I know, I know, there are lochs that are much more beautiful and it is such a super touristy thing to do but hey who doesn’t love a little campy fun every once in a while? The cab driver who brought us to pick up our car gave me a hard time when I called Nessie mythical and he seemed like a pretty straight laced guy so if he is a believer… I am just saying you never know what is out there. Legends have to start somewhere right?
Originally I hadn’t planned on even seeing Loch Ness but my niece loves Bigfoot so I figured the Loch Ness Monster was right up her alley. When I was looking for accommodations in Inverness the Clansman Hotel jumped out at me. It was a ways from town but located on the shores of Loch Ness. I don’t know about you, but if I have an option to stay near water that is usually what I choose. It was a good choice. We had a beautiful view of the loch every morning at breakfast and every evening at dinner. Added bonus: Jacobite tours of Loch Ness depart from a launch at our hotel. We checked in, had some lunch and hopped on the boat. Alas Nessie evaded us but we did enjoy the scenery. For a water lover like me just being out on the water makes it a good day.
Another great thing about our hotel was they had an excellent restaurant, which was great when we came back exhausted from sightseeing. The first night I had venison and the second night I had duck breast. Both were delightful. They also had gluten free options for my companions and were very knowledgeable about allergens. They were able to adapt some of the dishes so they were suitable for my niece.
Cairngorms National Park
The next morning we headed to Cairngorms National Park. We started at the Highland Folk Museum, an open air museum that showcases Highland life through the ages. They also have costumed staff and demos throughout the day. We were there early so a lot of the demos hadn’t started yet but it was still interesting to see buildings from different time periods and they have a pair of Highland cows. We are slightly obsessed with Highland coos
We were supposed to take the Stratespey Steam Train but unfortunately I forgot to make reservations until the night before and they were all booked up. This railway takes you through the park. They also have options for a light lunch or afternoon tea. Next time I will be sure to book in advance.
Instead we walked around Aviemore, one of the cute towns in the park, did a little shopping and had some lunch at the Winking Owl. This cozy restaurant and bar had friendly service and were very knowledgeable and accommodating with allergen needs.
After filling our bellies we decided to explore the park a bit on foot. We walked around Loch an Eilein. It was an easy walk on a well worn path around the lake and a great view of the castle ruins on an island just offshore. There are several lochs in Cairngorms, this just happened to be the closest to us. Actually Cairngorms hosts a wide variety of landscapes- mountains, moorlands, peatlands and has a ton of walking and biking trails as well as other outdoor activities. You could easily spend a few days exploring. We barely scratched the surface but our relaxing day was just what we needed to rest and recharge after being on the road for a week.
The wind and rain kicked up so we decided to head back toward Inverness. We continued our search for highland coos and found a few more on the way to our hotel. We enjoyed another lovely dinner and headed to bed. We had to catch a train to Edinburgh early the next morning.
Here are some great places to check out in Inverness City Center:
Inverness Castle
Currently only exterior can be viewed but a new Inverness Castle Experience is scheduled to open in 2025. Highland stories will be told through displays and immersive shows. It will feature a Gaelic inspired garden, a rooftop terrace with stunning views, a Highland music bar , restaurant and much more.
Leakey’s Bookshop
The biggest second hand book store in Scotland, Leakey’s Bookshop is sure to have whatever book you are looking for, along with some hidden gems. Browse rows and rows of previously owned books on a variety of subjects and enjoy the cozy log fireplace. My niece loves used book stores so I wish I had known about this one earlier. She would have been in heaven.
Inverness Cathedral
Dedicated to St Andrew, the patron saint of Scotland, Inverness Cathedral is an example of Victorian Gothic architecture and was built in the 19th century. It is newer than most of the cathedrals and churches you visit in the UK but there is intricate wood and stone carving along with beautiful stained glass. A cafe serving homemade goodies and a gift shop are onsite as well.
Inverness Museum & Art Gallery
Explore the history of the Highlands at the Inverness Museum and Art Gallery. With exhibits covering the natural history and archaeology as well as more recent history such as Jacobite memorabilia, Inverness silverware and Highland weapons and bagpipes. The art gallery hosts displays of local arts and crafts. This is a great companion to the Highland Folk Museum.