Everyone raves about Bruges so with all the hype I expected it to be very cheesy and touristy, like an Epcot version of a medieval village and packed like Disneyland too. I was wrong, it was absolutely charming. I loved it. I do have to note here that I visited midweek in April 2022, when everything was just starting to get back to normal after COVID so it was not crowded at all. This is not always the case as the UNESCO World Heritage City’s authentic medieval heritage attracts about 8 million visitors per year and is in danger of over tourism especially during the summer, when cruise ships drop thousands of passengers for a day trip into Bruges or Brugge as it is called in Dutch.
We used Bruges as our jet lag prevention. I always like to leave the city I fly into and keep busy the first day to adapt myself to the time difference and avoid jet lag. Bruges was perfect for this as it is just a short one hour train ride from Brussels and there is so much to keep you busy. While you can see most of the major sites in a quick day trip, spending at least a full day and overnight here really gives you a better feel of the city. Ideally I would spend two days and see more of what Bruges has to offer. The 48 hour Bruges itinerary below is adapted from our trip to spend two full days in Bruges and would be perfect as a weekend getaway. Really you could probably just stroll the streets of Bruges, taking in the medieval architecture and have a good time. It really is the best part of Brugge, well that and the beer. For me I have to see the sights and learn more. I am not great at sitting still. Do some of the items listed below or do none of them but definitely don’t skip a trip to Bruges.
Day 1
10:00 Visit Sint Janshuismolen, one of only four remaining windmills and the only one that can be visited. It is still used to grind grains. The stairs are very steep but you are rewarded at the top with a beautiful view of the ramparts and the intriguing interiors.
11:30 Stop at Volkskundemuseum, the folk museum. Reconstructed interiors show what daily life was like in the 19th and early 20th century. You can visit a pharmacy, classroom, tailor’s workshop, grocer and more. All are complete with an abundance of items from bygone days. I love folk museums- to see how people of the past lived really brings history to life for me. I get that it is not that exciting for everyone else. If it isn’t your thing, skip it and visit a brewery or just wander about town and relax.
13:00 Take a break and have lunch. We ate at Delaney’s Irish Pub and enjoyed delicious cottage pie and curry as well as some great local beer. The staff was friendly and offered great recommendations. Also they had gluten free options for my sister. Or there are endless options in the center of town if you are looking for something with more regional flair.
14:00 Drop in at the Basilica of the Holy Blood (Heilig Bloed Basiliek). The lower chapel is from the 12th century and has an austere Romanesque appearance, which is rare for this area. Move into the opulent late Gothic upper chapel, which has been destroyed and rebuilt twice. Wait in line to view one of Europe’s most important relics- a vial containing a few drops of Christ’s blood, brought from Jeresalem in 1149. Supposedly you can place your right hand on it but when I visited COVID protocols were just ending so nobody was touching anything. We walked up one by one and had a moment of reflection. For me I don’t necessarily believe in relics but I do find it fascinating that people would, and still do, make pilgrimages to see these objects. Note: hours for viewing the relic are limited so make sure to check before you go.
16:00 Cruise the Reien (canals). There are many companies that offer boat tours of the canals. Take a break, wind through the canals of Bruges and admire the bridges, medieval buildings and even swans.
17:00 Climb the Belfort. Built in the 13th century the belfry is one of the oldest examples of medieval urban architecture and the symbol of Bruges. Ascend 266 stairs to reach the top and a magnificent view of the city and surrounding area.
19:00 Dinner Time. There is a variety of options from fine dining to casual to pub fare. Reservations are always recommended. Also check out the main plazas of Markt and De Burg which are lit up at night and a hub of activity.
Day 2
9:30 Study art at Groeningemuseum. This museum encompasses six centuries of Belgian art from Flemish Primitives such as Jan Van Eyck and Hans Memling to Bruegel the Younger and even some Magritte and De Keyser. It is a pretty manageable size and could be visited rather quickly but give yourself some extra time because you will find yourself lingering over painting- it is a who’s who of Flemish art history.
11:30 Follow the history of Bruges through one of its wealthiest families at the Gruuthuse Museum. There are intricate tapestries, wooden sculpture and other decorative pieces that belonged to the family, in addition to the museum’s collections of lace, amber and porcelain. The way the museum ties it all to the rise and fall of the city gave us a better understanding of the history of Bruges. Plus we really like touring estates and looking at other people’s fancy things. Kind of voyeuristic if you ask me!
13:00 After all that learning it is time to relax and have some lunch. We walked away from the area to That’s Toast and had some of their amazing toast creations. Sandwiches with a kind of breakfast vibe. They also have some more brunch like platters. It’s tight quarters but the service was great and food was delicious. They have gluten free and dairy free options, which is why we sought this place out.
14:00 Explore Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk (Church of Our Lady) and museum. The brick spire is the second tallest in the world. Inside the restored brick Gothic church are the mausoleums of Charles the Bold and his daughter Mary of Burgundy as well as other artwork. The highlight is Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child, his only sculpture to leave Italy in his lifetime.
16:00 Quietly visit the Beguinage (Begijnhof}. Once homes for beguines, women who wanted to live a life of charitable work but not be bound by religious vows, these small white houses are now occupied by an order of Benedictine nuns who observe a vow of silence. One house is set up as a museum. It is fun to take a peek into this UNESCO site and imagine living a quiet life of service.
17:00 Stroll through Minnewaterpark. This lush green space surrounding the Minnewater (Lake of Love) is a great place to relax for a bit and take in some nature. Couples who cross the Lover’s Bridge are said to be blessed but even those of us that are single can fall in love with the weeping willows surrounding the lake and enjoy the fresh air. I always like to spend some time in parks wherever I travel. Calms my anxiety a bit.
18:00 Head to Dinner. We had dinner at a cute little place called Vlaminck 14, just off of the main tourist area. They offer classic Flemish dishes as well as other meat and seafood dishes and they were able to provide my sister with gluten free options. Definitely start with their house made gin (we had ours with tonic, of course) and end with the housemade limoncello. Everything was delicious and the service was fantastic.
Accommodations: We stayed at the Hotel du Theatre, which was a great midrange hotel. It is just outside of the main tourist area, which was nice. Normally I like to be right in the center to reduce travel time but Bruges is small so it was only a few minutes walk to the attractions. The rooms were average size and comfortable. Hotel has an elevator, which isn’t always the case in historic cities and a cute little bar downstairs. A delicious breakfast was included.