Everyone we talked to on our trip loves Edinburgh and with good reason. It is a fantastic city. It has history, art, literature, spooky sights and great nightlife. Truly something for everyone. Here are our favorites from our trip. We were only in Auld Reekie for two days but we packed a lot into those days because the city is very walkable and easy to get around. Whether you do just a few of these or all of them you are sure to have a good time.
Insider tip: Always make reservations for dinner in Edinburgh. I am the worst about this but our first night we tried at least five different restaurants and no one had room, it wasn’t even a “there’s a 45 minute wait” type of situation. It was a flat out no situation. Needless to say we made reservations for the following night but that was limited too, so book early.
Edinburgh Castle
Looming over the city for over 900 years, Edinburgh Castle is one of the oldest fortifications in Europe and the most besieged place in Britain. It has been used as a royal residence, fortress, garrison and prison. Today you can see the Crown Jewels, various military museums, the Great Hall and St Margaret’s Chapel. My niece’s confirmation saint was St Margaret so that was special for her. I found the prisoner’s exhibit incredibly interesting and the view from the castle was spectacular. You can hear the one o’clock gun across the city but it is fun to be at the castle to see it fired.
Whisky Tasting
I feel like this is a necessity in Scotland and there are plenty of options. We did the Scotch Whisky Experience right next to Edinburgh Castle. It included a brief overview of how Scotch Whisky is made, the history and different regions. Afterwards everyone gets a sample. My niece and I did the Gold Tour so we got four additional regional samples. We learned to identify the different notes, similar to wine tasting. I am a Jack and Coke drinker. Straight liquor just isn’t my thing but I enjoyed the tasting and have an appreciation of Scotch now, even though I think I will stick to my whiskey with an “e”. Some other options for tasting are Johnnie Walker Princes Street or Holyrood Distillery, both have tours and tastings. If you are just looking to relax and have a drink Bow Bar and the Black Cat have great whisky collections.
Just can’t get into Whisky? Try gin tasting instead at Edinburgh Gin Distillery. They have a range of options from the basic tastings and tour to a mixology experience. They are opening a new Distillery and Visitor Experience in Summer of 2024. I drank a lot of Edinburgh Gin during my trip and it would have been fun to see where it was made. Clearly I will be doing this next time.
St Giles Cathedral
There has been a church on the site of St Giles since 854 but the current structure was founded in 1124 and has been modified and restored multiple times over the last 900 years. The distinctive Scottish Crown Steeple was added in 1495. Once inside, marvel at the Robert Burns window, modern stained glass honoring Scotland’s favorite poet, and find the Robert Louis Stevenson memorial among numerous others paying homage to notable Scots. There is also an imposing statue of Scottish Reformation leader John Knox who was elected minister and preached here. My favorite part (besides the rib vaulting and stained glass) was the Thistle Chapel with its intricate wood carving and ceiling. It is dedicated to the Order of the Thistle, Scotland’s only chivalric order, which is bestowed by the sovereign and considered one of the country’s highest honors.
National Museum of Scotland
I will admit we did not give the National Museum of Scotland the time it deserved because we arrived later in the day. I didn’t realize just how massive and intriguing the museum was- sometimes you fail in your research and this was one of those times for me. It is broken up into five different collections, which really could be stand-alone museums: Natural World, World Cultures, the Art, Design and Fashion galleries, Science and Technology and Scottish History and Archaeology.
There is a lot to see and you could definitely spend an entire day here so don’t make my mistake! Give yourself plenty of time. Another option is to take one of the trails listed on the website or pick the galleries that sound the most interesting to you. My plan when I return is to concentrate on just a couple of the galleries each time I visit so I am not so overwhelmed.
National Gallery of Scotland
The National Gallery has Scotland’s best collection of art from Renaissance to Postimpressionism. A quick walk through and you will take in Rembrandt, Rubens, El Greco, van Gogh, Monet and Velasquez to name a few. There is also a wonderful collection of Scottish artists and gorgeous views of Edinburgh castle. It is a great way to spend an afternoon. If you’re craving more art check out the Portrait Gallery in New Town or Modern One and Two near Leith.
Palace of the Holyroodhouse
At the bottom of the Royal Mile is the official royal residence in Scotland, the Palace of the Holyroodhouse. With a Throne Room, the King’s Bedchamber, Royal Dining Room and State Rooms it has all of the pizzazz that you expect from a palace. There is an audio guide included with admission that details the history, including the murder of David Rizzio, the secretary of Mary Queen of Scots. There’s also a Family Room with costumes and activities for kids and the young at heart (We definitely played a little dress up). There is also the Queen’s Gallery that can be added to your ticket for a small price. Unfortunately when I went it was closed for maintenance but it normally contains a selection of pieces from the royal collection. Afterwards you can walk through the ruined abbey and palace gardens. Feel like enjoying more nature? Hike to the top of Arthur’s Seat, an extinct volcano and enjoy gorgeous views of town.
Edinburgh Chihuahua Cafe
So this is probably not on most people’s top ten but as a dog lover and chihuahua owner I had to check out Edinburgh Chihuahua Cafe. You have to book a time in advance and you absolutely cannot be late. As someone who has a tendency to get lost and is often late, that was a little stressful but we were sure to give ourselves extra time and made it their early (success!). Everyone in our time slot was led in at the same time, given a quick talk about what to expect and then the dogs were brought in. I know Chis are spooked by too much excitement but it was so hard to stay calm and relaxed with so much cuteness around! Six adorable dogs, each with their own little sassy personality. I was in heaven. The staff do a great job making sure everyone gets to interact and give tips on how each dog likes to be pet. I am pretty sure this would be my dog’s dream job. She loves to meet new people and ham it up for them. I don’t know if it made me miss her less but it was a great way to spend an hour.
Being a cafe they also serve a variety of beverages and treats. We had lattes with alternative milk and they even had gluten free cake for my sister. My heart and tummy were full when I left.
If you are a cat person there is also a Cat Cafe in Edinburgh, Maison de Moggy.
Ghost Tour Vaults
We took a tour that included the vaults, which are part of the underground city. Originally created as storage space for the stores above but they fell into disuse and then misuse. Lots of spooky stories about covens of witches and supernatural visits. There are a lot of companies that offer many different types of tours so it is easy to find one that fits your tastes. We used Auld Reekie, which was great. After seeing the abandoned vaults we searched out Banshee Labyrinth, a bar that uses the vaults for some of the club. It is supposed to be the most haunted bar in Edinburgh. Nothing scary happened but the drinks and ambiance were excellent. Another spooky tour option is the Real Mary King’s Close.
Greyfriars Kirkyard
So I have to admit Greyfriars Kirkyard is on my list mostly because of the touching story of Greyfriars Bobby. A dog who guarded his owner’s grave for years after the policeman died and was basically adopted by the city of Edinburgh. When the terrier died he was buried just outside of the kirkyard and people still leave sticks and treats for the loyal little pup. There is now a statue of the dog across the street and people rub the nose for luck. Some say it was a ruse to attract sightseers but I choose to believe it is real. The church and graveyard are very cute and nice to walk around. A bonus for Harry Potter fans: you can see graves bearing the names McGonagall and Thomas Riddle plus the Elephant House Cafe, where J.K. Rowling often wrote, is around the corner.
Rosslyn Chapel
Rosslyn Chapel is about 20 minutes outside of Edinburgh. It is a small church and is covered in carvings. Seven Deadly Sins, the Mason and Apprentice pillars, Birth of Christ and the Crucifixion illustrate stories and lessons from the bible. Carvings of plants like maize, aloe and trillium, from faraway lands add to the mystery as do symbols of the Knights Templar like the Lamb of God. The chapel has always attracted visitors, including Queen Victoria but the numbers grew exponentially when the DaVinci Code was released. It is a spellbinding place to visit even if you aren’t a Dan Brown fan. They don’t allow photography inside the chapel.
Calton Hill
A ten minute climb to the summit of Calton Hill is rewarded with panoramic views of Edinburgh. Walk among the National Monument, Robert Burns Monument and the Nelson Monument, just to name a few. This UNESCO World Heritage site and its glorious view has been featured in paintings and engravings.